In the beginning

In the heat of the summer of 1999 I take pieces of scrap paper and sketch the long, narrow parkway bed on the east side of our corner lot. It is about 170 feet long and six feet wide, and covered with weedy grass. Two books, Bob Perry's Trees and Shrubs for Dry California Landscapes, and Marjorie Schmidt's Growing California Native Plants, lay open. Although they tell me what some of these plants need, such as exposure, water, and preferred soil, there are no pictures showing the garden of my dreams. In fact, the only pictures that come close are those in Judith Larner Lowry’s book, Gardening with a Wild Heart. Although many new books on gardening with native plants have been published since I embarked on this project, the ideas and pictures in this amazing book formed the framework for everything that I have done in my yard since.

Sketch of parkway. Bottom strip runs from southeast corner of lot  (left) to gate into side yard (right), top strip goes from gate (left) to north end, driveway (right). There is one existing tree, southern magnolia, towards the southern end of the strip. This diagram shows plans to put in three coast live oaks (Qu agr.), repeating deergrass (labeled Muhl rig) and a few other plants. In fairness, this is a recent diagram that demonstrates a concept drawing. The repeating trees and bunchgrasses provide order to the planting.

I know I want to garden with a "wild heart," but back in 1999, I am clearly out of my depth and overwhelmed. I have only a vague notion of what this garden will look like. Furthermore, still feeling new to the area, I am uncertain about how these unusual plants will grow. To put it into perspective, I have no understanding of how anything can grow in such unrelenting heat and sunshine, and with no rain for more than half the year.

Holding a glass of iced coffee, I stroll along the sidewalk in the heat of the day. We have lived in southern California for a couple of years, and only recently moved into this new house. The transition from east coast to west was jarring, and standing here looking at the beat up old grass, I am at a loss. I take a sip of my cold, refreshing coffee and gather my thoughts. Eventually the parkway will have three beautiful coast live oak trees. These trees will cast shade and make it difficult for other plants to grow beneath them. This fits well with my life plan. As I age, the trees will mature, making ongoing weeding and care less cumbersome. But this does not answer the pressing question of what my new garden, still covered with weedy lawn, will look like next year and for the twenty years following that it takes for the oak trees to reach a good size.

First plantings in the parkway garden,  Dec. 5, 1999.

I force myself to focus. Since I am overwhelmed by the full length of the parkway, I decide to break the project into one little bit, an 8 foot by 6 foot rectangle at the north end of the strip. I will be able to do what I want to do most, plant something, and the tedious, back-breaking process of digging out the grass will be gradual and manageable.

By spring of 2004 the parkway north of the side
gate was landscaped.

Coastal sage scrub plants that are right at home in our dry, hot summers, and cool, wet winters, will spread across the nearly full sun, flat garden with loamy soil, beginning in a small corner at the north end, and gradually working their way south. The plants might include wild sages, bunchgrasses, and California buckwheat. Since even these perennials will need a good bit of room between them before they are full grown, wildflower seeds will be sown in the spaces.

Now, thirteen years later, I am especially glad that I started slowly. Few of the original plants remain. Some did not meet my aesthetic requirements, others were not well-matched to the environment, and others grew out of control, spreading where they were not wanted. All of the original deergrass plants remain and their repeating pattern provides a bit of order to the wild parkway garden. Though I have had people ask me why my garden is full of weeds, most who talk to me express enthusiasm for the sights, sounds, and smells of my wild garden. Some gently stroke the feathery sagebrush and wild sage, clearly enjoying their lingering spicy aroma. Quite a few tell me that it reminds them of their walks in the mountains. They seem to get it ... or maybe they are just being nice.

Milo was a big help right from the start. Here in Feb. 2005, he helps me clear the wild sage from the sidewalk.

Grasses dominate in November 2006. The coast live oaks were planted in the fall of 2005 but are hidden in this picture by the exuberant bunchgrasses.

Wildflowers crowd out the grasses in the spring (April 2007).

After dropping her child off at school, my neighbor glides by the garden on her child's scooter. The grasses, encroaching on the sidewalk, will be cleared soon. (May 2009)

The coast live oaks have grown nicely since planting four years earlier. (Oct. 2009)

The repeating deergrass and oak trees lend order to the wild parkway garden. (Sept. 2010)

Tree Care, Part 2: Training Young Trees

Following the Santa Ana windstorm that began in the early morning hours of December 1st, I started to consider whether trees would have better withstood these unusually strong winds if they had been grown and cared for according to best horticultural practices. This led me to write the first article, Selecting and Planting Trees for Long Term Success, of a series of three on tree care.

Assuming that the best tree was selected, and that it was planted and cared for properly from the start, proper care during the next stage of development can determine whether the tree grows into a beautiful, strong, long-lived specimen, or is subject to disease and damage. In fact, it may be that some of the limb failures during the storm were due to poor pruning practices on young trees.

Once a young tree has become established in its new site, usually taking a few years, good pruning can facilitate the development of a strong and healthy structure. Training a young tree through pruning will be discussed here. Many of these pruning tips apply to trees throughout their lives, but establishing a healthy structure is very important and best accomplished early on.  Much of the information here came from the excellent book by Lee Reich called The Pruning Book. I highly recommend it for its clear and excellent photographs illustrating good pruning cuts and practices.

A young Engelmann oak at the LA
County Arboretum with juvenile
branches left intact.

Training a young ornamental tree entails selecting the main branching structure through pruning. Since removal of branches slows the growth of a tree, pruning should be minimal and judicious. During the first few years after planting, allow small temporary branches to remain along the main stem of the tree. These juvenile branches feed the main stem and root system, resulting in a larger and stronger tree.

Select leader branch, remove co-dominant branches
After several years, approximately 3-5 depending on the tree and how quickly it is growing, begin to select the leader and scaffolding branches. First, determine which branch will be the leader. This is the central main stem that continues from the trunk. Some trees, like liquidambars, have strong leaders, with little branching along the main stem unless the leader is cut. Other trees, such as mulberries, branch more freely along the main stem and the leader must be selected and maintained through pruning. Eventually the leader may lost as the tree develops a broad, rounded crown. This is fine as long as a good structure develops early on. As a general rule of thumb, do not cut the leader.

Liquidambar with co-dominant stems. In time
these could split apart causing the tree to fail.

If the main axis of the tree naturally splits into two equal branches, the tree is said to have a co-dominant leader. Over time the co-dominant branches do not have enough room to increase in width and the tree can split at this juncture. When the tree is young remove one of the co-dominant branches, selecting the stronger and/or straighter of the two. A co-dominant branch can also be reduced in size by pruning some of its secondary branches.

Select scaffolding branches
A strong tree will have secondary or scaffolding limbs along the stem. These branches should be well spaced and smaller than the main leader in size, and they should extend from the main stem with a wide crotch. Furthermore, they should branch out in all directions so the tree is not lopsided but has a fully rounded form. Limbs growing out in all directions feed a symmetrical root system and result in a stronger and more beautiful tree. Over several years, remove limbs that are too closely spaced, growing with a narrow crotch (acute angle to the larger branch), growing too low on the trunk, or unevenly spaced around the tree.

Scaffolding branches
were removed because
they were too close to-
gether, without enough
room to develop.

Scaffold branches will develop side branches as well. Pruning these should follow the same rules: good spacing, wide crotches, and removing or reducing branches that compete with the main scaffold branch.

In addition to training a tree to have a leader and strong symmetrical scaffolding branches, several other conditions may need to be corrected throughout the life of the tree. Correct crossed branches as they occur. Rubbing between branches causes injury that can allow disease to enter the tree. Furthermore, as both branches grow they can create an area of weakness that is susceptible to rot. In time low growing branches will need to be removed as these may interfere with sidewalks or roads. Suckers and water sprouts have weak attachment to the tree and should be removed whenever they occur. Branches with narrow crotches should be eliminated since these too result in weak attachment and areas susceptible to rot. And finally, branches that are dead, diseased or dangerous should be removed.

As trees age they will always have some dead branches. This is especially true of our native coast live oak. Occasional pruning of small dead branches may be good for the tree, but remember that dead branches have wildlife value. Birds feed off the insects that live in snags and other dead limbs. Pollinators often nest in these areas as well. Nature is not perfectly neat, so if your trees and your garden are a bit messy, you are creating better habitat.

Two coast live oaks in my yard, the one on the left has this and numerous other narrow crotches. This one should have been corrected earlier before the limbs reached this size. The one on the right has a nice wide crotch with a healthy bark ridge.

This coast live oak has a split trunk at the base. The secondary trunk crosses the main trunk. The two trunks will interfere with each other both at the base and above where they cross.

The problems noted above were corrected and now the tree has a good chance of growing into a strong, healthy oak.

When to prune
In general deciduous trees should be pruned when they are dormant. The absence of leaves makes it easier to select the right branches to create a well-formed tree.

The California Oak Foundation recommends minimal pruning of oaks. Pruning of evergreen oaks, including our coast live oak, is best done in late summer. Read Pruning Oak Trees in Southern California by the UC Cooperative Extension before pruning or having your oaks pruned by someone else.

Two cuts in a magnolia that have healed over
well. The cuts were made above the branch collar so
the tree can heal,  leaving a donut-shaped
wound that closes over time.

How to cut
Now that you know what and when to cut, let us consider how to prune a branch. Again, Lee Reich's book, The Pruning Book, has excellent pictures. There are also many websites with pictures of good pruning cuts (see below).

All pruning should be done with clean, sharp and appropriate tools. Bypass hand pruners work well for small branches. I love my Felco #2 pruner! Lopping shears are useful for branches larger than one-half inch. Again, my favorite is the Felco #23. Finally a small folding handsaw is often useful for larger branches, and once again Felco comes through with the F-600.

Equipped with the right tools, the cut must be made properly. Branches extending from a larger branch or the main trunk of a tree have a bulge called the branch collar. The branch collar is more prominent on some trees than others, but a proper pruning cut never damages this area. A flush cut that damages or removes the collar  results in a wound that is difficult to compartmentalize, therefore leaving the tree especially susceptible to disease.

This wound did not heal over
completely, leaving the tree
open to decay. It is now
an area of weakness that
is subject to failure.

Since we are discussing training young trees, you should not be making large cuts. If, however, you are removing a fairly large, heavy branch, the three cut method is preferred (or better yet, hire a qualified arborist). The Virginia Cooperative Extension has a clear description of this and other pruning tips: A Guide to Successful Pruning, Pruning Deciduous Trees.

Research has determined that good cuts heal best without being coated, a practice that was popular in the past.  

Conclusion
Clearly, many trees get less than optimal care when young. Some develop into strong, healthy specimens, others look okay until they are stressed. The Santa Ana winds were unusually violent, shearing off tops, ripping off large limbs and uprooting enormous trees, some that appeared to be structurally sound and healthy, and others with obvious defects. Unusual weather events are out of our control, but planting the right trees and taking good care of them is not.

In the next article I will cover pruning mature trees and common pruning errors - and atrocities. Although it is recommended that large, mature trees be pruned by qualified arborists, knowing what a properly pruned tree looks like is an important step to having one. 

Unable to heal completely around the wound this tree is susceptible to decay.

These limbs were pruned too far out, leaving stubs
that again interfere with proper healing.

Completely healed, closed to decay. 

                         

Resources
There is a lot of misinformation out there. In general, I use websites of universities, cooperative extensions, governmental agencies, and horticultural or arboreal organizations or institutions. Be sure to use reliable references.

Good General Info
Lee Reich, The Pruning Book, 2nd Edition. 2010. CT: Taunton Press.

Univ. of California Cooperative Extension and California Master Gardener

• How do I keep my tree healthy and vigorous? (link and resources)
• Pruning (pdf) , Master Gardener Handbook
• Training Young Trees for Structure and Form (pamphlet)
• Planting and Care of Landscape Trees, Part 1 (video with Pam Bone)
• Planting and Care of Landscape Trees, Part 2 (video with Pam Bone)
• Classes and events

Colorado State University Extension, CMG GardenNotes #613. Pruning Cuts
International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), Tree care information
Iowa State University, Forestry Extension, Pruning Young Landscape Trees
National Arborists, Tree Pruning
Oklahoma State University, Training Young Shade and Ornamental Trees
US Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, How to Prune Trees
Urban Tree Foundation, Training and pruning trees for strength, clearance, and aesthetics
Virginia Cooperative Extension, A Guide to Successful Pruning

Oak Trees

• California Oaks Foundation, Care of California's Native Oaks 
• LA County Online: Sudden oak death and care of native oaks
• UC Cooperative Extension, Ventura Co., Pruning Oak Trees in Southern California (excellent!)

Conifers
UC Cooperative Extension, Central Coast & South Region, Pruning Conifers

You Tube on Pruning Crape Myrtle (this is why I suggest sticking with official organizations for info):

How to prune a crape myrtle: (stick with Univ. extensions, and other governmental agency info)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=endscreen&v=3hZJRWkRH5M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzzNaId-XjE&feature=related

How not to prune a crape myrtle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFibCwxnS14&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2fs-STJzU4&feature=fvwrel

Nature park planting party was a big success

Three hundred, one-gallon native, coastal sage scrub plants were purchased from El Nativo Growers with discretionary funds from city councilmember, Rick Schneider. The plants were delivered to the South Pasadena Woodland and Wildlife Park on Friday, January 27, 2012, and with the help of three volunteers, we quickly unloaded the truck, counted the plants, and separated them into groups that would be placed in different locations around the park.

Small group of deergrass (Muhlenbergia rigens) and a coast sunflower (Encelia californica) to be planted on Pasadena Avenue at the entrance of the park. We have tried quite a few things including Pacific Coast Hybrid irises, yarrow, monkeyflowers and blue-eyed grass with spotty success. Let's see how these durable grasses do.

Still smiling after unloading, counting, separating and placing 300 one-gallon pots. Volunteers made this project both possible and fun. Thanks to Marie, Allan and Liz!

The next day, Saturday, January 28th, girls scouts and community volunteers started arriving at 9 AM. At 10, students from Occidental College arrived. In total, there were about fifty people participating. The day was sunny and cool, perfect planting weather, and everyone was ready to get dirty and have some fun. Although I was very busy the whole day, I was able to snap a few pictures that tell the story better than words.

Sign with contact info and dates for future community park clean-ups.

Tools, hoses and watering cans laid out and ready for the big day. Luckily other volunteers brought extra tools as well, but still we were not fully equipped when the scouts and the college students were working in the morning.

Equestrian rides by as girl scouts and other volunteers get started.

Girls from one troop help younger scouts plant blue-eyed grass and other natives.

Occidental College students make due using sticks to pull weeds while waiting for some tools to become available. Girl Scouts (upper right) are busy planting California fuchsia in soil that turned out to be rock hard. A couple planted there two years ago survived, so hopefully, in spite of the soil, we will have a lovely red floral display next fall.

Not only did volunteers dig and plant, they also watered each and every new planting, and as you can see from this picture of a girl scout, they did it with a smile.

Some parents stayed to work, others only dropped off or picked up kids, but most remained long enough to see what was happening and to catch up with friends and neighbors.

Sometimes it is nice to just slow down and enjoy life outdoors.

Everyone seemed to be having a good time.

Amy Nettleton (Landscape Architect, Elemental Landscapes) chats with Drew Ready (S. Pas Natural Resources & Envir. Comm.) while his son digs nearby. Amy  laid out paths in this central part of the park, raking the mulch to mark their location so that we would know where to put the plants and where to keep the ground clear.

The morning went by very quickly but a lot was accomplished.

David is proud of how much he got in the ground!

Mike, volunteer par excellence, traveled from Long Beach to see what we were up to. Working with teachers at Prisk Elementary School, Mike created and has maintained --   has it been a dozen years now? -- a truly amazing native plant school garden.

Sonia Nicholson, who was on the original community task-force for the design of the park, lends a hand.... and a foot.

Councilman Rick Scheider (left), responsible for providing funds for the plants, talks with Sam Burgess (right), high school environmental science teacher and scout parent, Don Wielenga (2nd from left), and girl scout, Maaike Wielenga (3rd from left). Maaike's troop is getting their Silver Award working at the nature park. In addition to participating in the planting party, they are also creating interpretive materials including plant identification signs and a park brochure.

Oxy student lovingly plants a black sage (Salvia mellifera).

Students get ready to pose for photo by school photographer.

Plants in the ground and well watered, tools and hoses loaded back in my car, we take a break at the end of the day by the Arroyo Seco. Most students are unfamiliar with the waterways in Southern California and find it interesting to see the basis for our nature park.

I have been back to the park several times since the planting and things are looking good. Still, this is not the easiest place to grow new plants. The irrigation system does not function so plants have to be watered - until they become established -  with a series of hoses that are connected to a spigot up on Pasadena Avenue and strung down into the park. Some plants are too far from the spigot and can only be reached with a watering can. The park has a healthy and hungry population of gophers who love to eat the roots of tender new plantings, and I have already found some evidence of their work. Finally, the soil in the park was heavily disturbed and is just starting to heal. We have worked hard to remove weeds, giving the native plants a chance to grow and multiple, and we are definitely seeing positive results. It is likely we will have a fairly high loss rate, but those that make it will naturalize in the site, reseeding and eventually replacing the weeds with appropriate and lovely coastal sage scrub habitat. As this occurs, the area will become a better home for birds, lizards, butterflies, dragonflies, and a myriad of other insects and critters that once flourished here.

Thanks to everyone who made the Nature Park Planting Party and Occidental College MLK Day of Service a success. If you would like to be notified of future park clean-ups and events, check the nature park blog, Native By Design, or email me to add your name to our park email list (all emails are sent using bcc for privacy).